Alan Rousseau wrote the following report about the first ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau's west face, which he completed with Tino Villanueva in mid-October. The Americans named their route Release the Kraken (AI5 M5+, 1600m). It appears that this is also the first alpine-style ascent of the main peak (ca. 6940m) since its first ascent in 2002 by a a team of Japanese and Sherpa climbers who scaled the southeast face with fixed ropes. Other teams have climbed the shorter south summit (ca. 6180m) in alpine style. Rousseau and Villanueva's expedition was supported by a Copp-Dash Inspire Award.—Ed.
Read more on Alpinist.com: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19f/newswire-release-the-kraken-tengi-ragi-tau